
Please read this entire manual suppliment first before starting the assembly of your FMA HydroHawk ARF.
We have found several improvements for the positioning of components like the battery pack and motor.
Cutting the foam canopy for the improved battery placement is easiest done before gluing it to the deck.
In the Box:
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Parts from the Box:
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The power system was tested using two different size Cellpro Kokam packs. The packs measured as follows with the stock GWS 8x4.3 prop.
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Cellpro 3-cell
910mAh
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Assembly:
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Position the lower elevators using the supplied hinges and then secure in place with several drops of thin CA on both sides
to soak the fiber hinge material. Epoxy the foam canopy onto the main body. Before doing so, you may want to test fit
the motor mount assembly and cut away a thin amount of inner foam, if needed.
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Epoxy the top stabilier in 3
places
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Epoxy the vertical stabilizers in place making sure that they are at right angles to the main body.
Attached the rudder using the supplied hinges and soak with thin CA
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The motor mount can be glued with either white glue or epoxy.
The inner foam wall of the canopy may need to be widened with a razor knife before the motor mount fits.
Press the motor in place on the stick and secure with the two supplied screws.
Note that the motor assembly must be positioned above the stick for improved flying performance and prop ground clearance.
Linkages:
Note that the left and right pairs of elevators require an elevon mix either at the receiver using a tiny external device
or at the transmitter if it has an elevon mix feature. The mix allows the four elevator control surfaces to act as both
elevators and ailerons; called elevons. The elevon mix is required to fly this model properly.
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If your transmitter does not
have a mixing fucntion, use the FMA MX80
Elevon Mixer
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When viewed from the rear of the model, all 4 surfaces go up for up elevator (down stick).
For right aileron stick, both right surfaces on the top and bottom decks go up and the left two surfaces go down. This is reversed for left aileron stick.
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The M5v2
receiver fits nicely in the rear of the foam canopy
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The servos were mounted to a small piece of balsa using servo tape and then the balsa was CA'ed to the body.
The M5 v2 receiver fits nicely in the rear of the canopy with the antenna wire routed through the rudder servo opening.
The three brushless motor wires are secured to the motor post which holds the ESC in place from the rear. The ESC is held from the front
by the power connector into the body of the boat.
The top deck linkage uses the "Z" bend end of the metal rod after first removing the quick link.
The ESC ends were sealed with silicone paste to prevent water getting in.
Finishing the HydroHawk:
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Final Steps The battery position shown on the left works fine and is easiest to build. The battery position shown on the right improves flight performance as the weight is closer to balanced on both sides. |
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Ready-To-Fly The components fit very well and the proper CG of 3.0" was right at the step in the floats. The FMA HydroHawk ARF was ready to fly at 15oz with the 3oz Cellpro Kokam 910mAh pack. |
Note: If the 3.0" CG cannot be obtained, add 1/4oz lead weights to the tips of the foam floats. The weights can be glued in flush
with the inside surface of each float near the tip.
Test Flying:
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Video 1 (4.5meg) The first video was taken during 10mph winds. The HydroHawk needed to keep the speed up so the wind wouldn't push it around. |
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Video 2 (6.7meg) The second video was taken in calmer conditions with about 5mph winds. It was easier to slow fly the HydroHawk and we had a blast taking off the grass and performing loops and rolls. |
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HydroHawk Rocks!
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We are very happy with the performance of the FMA HydroHawk. It flies great and is very rugged. Another great value from FMA Direct!